One example, that I have seen several times, is that the manufacturer's tag is left on the left cuff of a suit jacket. It seems pretty obvious, but in a world where formulas often outnumber actual words, this is only the tip of the iceberg.
In an attempt to educate the "unwashed masses," I present the following rules and tips to turn a squirrely guy into a well-dressed man, ready for the world outside of academia.
The Suit
Every guy should have at least two suits. Start out with a charcoal gray suit as it is the most versatile as far as occasions and seasons. The second suit should be a navy suit. I'm a fan of pinstripes, especially on navy, so that to me would be acceptable, although some say you should wait until you have more suits. After those two, it is pretty open as to what colors can be bought. A nice tan or khaki is good for a summer color that will make you stand out from the gray and blue crowd. As far as material, a wool suit is the standard. Stay away from the higher quality wools for daily wear though, such as Super 120s and Super 150s, as these will wear out quickly compared to the coarser, less expensive weaves. The main suit I have seen worn that speaks to the lack of knowledge of the wearer is a black suit. These suits will either make you look like you are straight out of a trendy, modern designer ad (like Prada or Armani) or that you are on your way to a funeral. So, keep in mind the rule that black suits are for funerals and formal occasions.
The Shirt
The shirt may seem like the simplest part of the suit ensemble, but there are several variations to the shirt that can make the overall outfit look better or worse. While pockets are not absolute faux pas, having none will give the shirt a more tailored and elegant look. As for cuffs, I prefer double cuffs, or French cuffs, for business formal. These are much more formal than the typical single cuff, or barrel cuff, worn by nearly every man in a suit. Also, the need for cuff links, which will be discussed further down, give an additional chance for individualism as well as a possible point of conversation. For the collar, a simple pinpoint collar with stays, or collar stiffeners, is the best choice. Button-down is far too casual and also looks a little strange with a tie, in my opinion. As far as other types of collars, like spread or cutaway, it all depends on what kind of face and neck you have. For example, someone with a short neck and round face should not wear a spread collar as it will emphasize the undesirable traits. For collars, you would basically need to balance out whatever shape of face you have. This brings us to the topic of contrast collars, sometimes referred to as Winchester collars. These are very formal and should always been worn with a tie (i.e. not for business casual). Due to their formality, French cuffs look best. In addition, the cuffs should be white, as is the collar. This just provides a little more "balance" to the shirt. As a disclaimer, these shirts are often considered to be loud and carry an air of pretentiousness with them. Not everyone thinks this, but since some do, it would be wise to refrain from wearing such shirts to an interview or to a new place of employment. For interviews, a plain white or light blue shirt works best. Obviously, the white shirt is the most versatile when it comes to suit and tie combinations. As far as when/how to wear all the various stripes, checks, and different colors, it depends on the personality and skin tone of the person wearing them as well as the situation or atmosphere. Things become even more complicated when trying to match ties to such shirts, so I would advise looking elsewhere for that kind of information.
Ties
There's not too much to say about ties, as they depend mainly on the personality of the person wearing them, and also on the colors and patterns of the suit and shirt. The main thing that can be said about ties is that the knot depends either on the situation or, more importantly, on the type of collar that is being worn. The Windsor knot is a very wide, thick knot. The Windsor usually works best for spread collars, but not pinpoint collars. Since the Windsor knot has a certain presence to it, almost demanding attention, many say this is the knot that should be used in situations like interviews or important presentations, in order to convey an air of confidence. I tend to think that the knot should be determined more by the type of collar than by the situation. Another problem with the Full Windsor is that it uses a large amount of the tie material, which leaves very little to tuck into the label or holder on the reverse side of the tie. Then there is the Half Windsor knot, which is slightly thinner than the Full Windsor. I have never used this knot, so I can't really say whether it works with any collar as some claim. The most common knot, probably because it is so simple and quick to tie, is the Four in Hand knot. This is the knot that you will most likely see on any man in a suit. This is the knot I use on a regular basis. One thing to be careful of is that the knot can be small with thinner fabrics, like silk. A final word about ties would be to pay particular attention to the length of the tie. I often see guys wear their tie very short or very long. The tie should always hit the belt. If you can, aim for the angles created by the triangular end to just hit the very top of the belt. The signature of a well-worn tie is the presence of a dimple in the middle of the top of the tie, vanishing into the knot. This just takes some practice to accomplish, but when perfected, shows to everyone that you are no novice and that you take your appearance seriously.
Cuff Links
Cuff links, like ties, are another chance for personal expression in an outfit that otherwise might feel like a uniform. The points I would emphasize is to be a little more reserved with cuff links, even if you have a life-of-the-party personality. If you walk into an interview with large, colorful cuff links, you may end up making yourself look gaudy and classless. Depending on the color of your watch and/or wedding band, gold or silver links are probably the best choice. Of course, this doesn't prevent you from choosing shapes or symbols that have meaning to you. The other possibility, if you absolutely need to have some color, is to use fabric knots. Matching these with your tie can create a nice combination without becoming tasteless.
Shoes
With so many different types of shoes out there, I will not attempt to say which type is more formal or which is more fitting for certain types of suits, etc. However, there are just a few simple rules to follow when buying dress shoes. Always go for leather soles instead of rubber. While the rubber soles may give you an expectation of longevity, this is probably false. Once the rubber wears down, it will be hard, if not impossible, to replace. Leather soles, on the other hand, can be replaced infinitely. The leather sole also speaks to the quality of the shoe. When looking for a shoe, always avoid "box" toe shoes. Kenneth Cole Reaction shoes are a nice example (of what not to wear) that pops into mind. The shape I like most is somewhat pointed, in that it extends a little past the actual toe line, with a rounded tip. This creates a longer shoe that looks elegant rather than stubby. The most important thing to realize with a pair of shoes is that, if cared for properly, they can last decades. This nature almost makes them an investment. The best tips on keeping dress shoes in excellent condition is to place cedar shoe trees in them immediately after removing them, keeping them in cloth shoe bags, and giving them a good polish every once in a while. The cedar shoe trees help maintain the shape of the shoe as well as absorb excess moisture created throughout the day. The cloth bags, of course, keep off dust and simply protect the outside of the shoes when not being worn.
While these rules may come off as too in depth, or if you believe that no one will notice, I would say that is partially the point. The hallmark of a good suit or outfit is that no one will notice the suit or how good it looks, only that you as a person look excellent. It takes several different pieces coming together in a particualr way to achieve this - hence the attention to detail. Finally, one should realize that these rules do not always have to be followed exactly. These are just a combination of rules I have learned combined with personal preference and experiences. Hopefully, these rules will help provide a basis for creating a versatile business wardrobe as well as providing an extra amount of professionalism.
